Autos
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[Battery Care]
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& Hoses]
[Fuel Additives] [Fuel Injection
[Fuel Savings] [Opening the Hood] [Insurance] [Lemon Law] [Maintenance] [Paint finish tips] [Power Steering 101]
[Pre-Trip Rx] [Radiator 101] [Road Rage] [Road Ready] [Road Safety] [Road Divider lines] [Seat Belts] [Stolen Vehicle]
[Tires] [Tire changing
101] [Tire
Pressure]
[Traffic Law 101] [Used Car
purchasing]
[Vehicle Maintenance Basics]
[Wheel
Alignment]
[Winter Driving]
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Never! mix or store Gasoline/Oil mixtures indoors or in enclosed poorly ventilated areas, where fuel fumes may reach an open flame, spark or pilot light such as on a furnace, water heater, clothes dryer or other appliance. |
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Number 1. Your hood is held down with
a primary and secondary latching system. Occassionally spray the release and spring with WD40. |
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Did you know that running the wrong size tires on your vehicle cost you gas mileage? Your vehicle is geared for a specific tire size. look at your driver’s side door jam, it spells it out for you. |
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According to recent studies, 5 percent of all motor vehicle
fatalities are clearly caused by automobile maintenance neglect. (tires,
brakes, and steering) |
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Also, have the service technician evaluate the engines performance, Heater and Air Conditioning and defroster, windshield wipers in good working order, and is your electrical system (horn/lights and directional) in good working order? Do you have your safety tote in the trunk for emergencies? |
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Did you know
that a loose or missing gas cap can affect your gas
mileage? The vented gas simply vaporizes. |
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Money
Saver (sometimes) AIR BAGS & AUTOMATIC
SEAT BELTS ANTI-THEFT/ALARM ANTI-LOCK BRAKES (ABS) DRIVING SCHOOL SAFE DRIVER MULTI-CAR FAMILY
Raising deductible is the amount you pay when you make a
claim before your insurance company pays. The disadvantage of raising your
deductible is that when you do make a claim, you will pay more on your end.
The advantage is that your annual insurance costs go down. You can raise your
deductible on the comprehensive and collision sections of your insurance
policy. Proof
of Insurance: Auto
Rental: When you have an Accident: "Notify your insurance company of the accident as soon as possible". - Move your vehicle to a safe place, then stop and identify yourself to the other driver. (Some state or local laws may require the vehicle be left as is.) If it can’t be moved, turn on the hazard lights. Seek medical help if you or other parties require it, and notify the police. Tell them who you are, where you are, and about any obvious or claimed injuries. -You are required by Law in every State, that you must immediately contact the police, if there are injuries. -Do not assume that you have no injuries from an accident. Sometimes it takes a few months to surface. -Do not settle immediately with the other parties’ insurance company. Considering that you may initially have unknown injuries. -Exchange information with the other driver(s) including driver’s license numbers. Get the driver’s name, address, telephone numbers and name of insurance company. Also, list any passengers and witnesses. -Get
names and badge numbers of any police officers who arrive at the scene. If
there are injuries or extensive damage, the police should file a report. Ask
to get a copy. -Avoid
any extensive discussions at the scene about who is responsible for damage.
If the other person admits responsibility, offers a money settlement and you
accept, any future claim against the driver may be compromised. You or the
other party may later find damage and bodily injury not apparent at first. -
Write a complete description of the accident as soon as possible. Include
weather conditions, estimated speeds, and as much precise information as you
can observe. Take photographs if a camera is available. Lock
your car: What
is the meaning?
CAR RENTAL INSURANCE TIPS: Do's
& Don'ts Check with your credit card
company, personal and auto insurance carrier, and the rental car company
itself. You do not have to buy the rental company's insurance. You might
already have it covered. Take the time to check your own existing policy
first. Note that there could be certain restrictions to your own policy and
that certain rental vehicles might not be covered.
-CDW: Collision Damage Waiver usually covers loss and/or
damage to the rental car. CDW releases you from financial responsibility
under rental contract if you crash the car. This agreement can be voided if
you are caught using the car in an unsafe manner. Automobile Insurance Providers:
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BROKEN ENGINE BELT TIP: Use a pair of panty hose for a "temporary" fix, or duct tape upside down, utilizing multiple layers, obviously, you don't want the sticky part touching the pulley. (what did we every do, before duct tape?) |
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Little Cool Air
Make sure to have the system checked regularly according to
your vehicle's owner's manual. If you happen to live in a cold climate, it
might not make much sense to run the A/C during the winter months, but you
should run your A/C system regularly, because it contains a
special mineral oil in the refrigerant to keep the compressor properly
lubricated. Turn it on one a month for about 5-10 minutes. Some heating,
ventilation and air conditioning systems also engage the A/C compressor for
defrost mode. |
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Replacing a
clogged air filter can improve gas mileage by as much as 5 percent. |
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IT IS THE LAW Is your Proof of Insurance in your car? |
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When your
automobile tires are not inflated properly, it’s
like driving with the emergency brake on. Decreasing your gas mileage. |
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-Signal turns
lane changes and stops using hand signals.
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Periodically check the lights to make sure they're all working. Turn on your emergency flasher and see if all four lights flash. Then individually try the right and left turn signal to make sure they are working front and rear. Ask a friend to apply the brakes to see if the brake lights are functioning. Obviously, it's extremely dangerous to drive a car with faulty brake lights. If any of the lights aren't working, replace
that bulb. If the brake lights aren't working first check the bulbs, then the
brake switch. If your dash lights are not functioning, check for burned out
fuses, or for defective bulbs in older vehicles. For passenger safety, make
sure that the courtesy lamps illuminate. Don't forget any under the hood
bulbs as well as the trunk lamp. -Timing
Belt The timing belt
is a notched rubber belt that allows the crankshaft to turn the
camshaft. The camshaft opens and closes the valves in synchronicity
with the movement of the pistons. If your timing
belt breaks, your engine will stop working, stranding you wherever you may
be. Worse yet, it can cause major engine damage. Generally, timing
belts should be replaced every sixty thousand miles. -Serpentine
Belt* Serpentine belts,
also known as drive belts, provide power to the air conditioning compressor,
power steering pump, cooling fan, air injection pump, and more. If your serpentine belt breaks, all of the engine parts it is powering will stop working. Your engine could overheat and be damaged. -Radiator and heater hoses are also made of rubber. Their condition should be checked periodically. Both the upper and lower radiator hoses can rupture from internal pressure and age without the driver knowing it. When that happens, the coolant flows out, and the engine can freeze from excessive heat buildup. In
general, inspect all hoses for wear, including hairline cracks and soft,
bulging spots. Hoses that come in contact with brackets or other metal parts
are prone to wear in these areas. Even if the hoses pass visual inspection, Changing all the water hoses every 50,000 miles is the way
to go, for preventative maintenance. |
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If at any time your cars temperature climbs beyond the normal range,
the engine is running in the danger zone. Conversely, if the car will not
warm up sufficiently, the thermostat is not functioning properly, the
culprit; most likely the thermostat is not closing. The radiator is one of the
most important operating parts of your vehicle. It’s
task is keeping your automobile's engine at a safe operating temperature, a
bad radiator could mean serious trouble for you if you do not seek
professional mechanical attention immediately. Unfortunately, radiator
problems can often develop without the owner even knowing it, small particles
of dirt and rust clogging up the essential elements, preventing your car
radiator from being able to cool your engine properly. If this happens, your
vehicle will over heat, potentially leaving you stranded. The best way to
avoid such problems, which will inevitably happen with all automotive
radiators as they age, is with regular routine maintenance and service. Being
vigilant will help you catch minor car radiator problems before they become
major ones. Your vehicle engine runs on
heat. Chemical energy in the fuel is transformed into thermal energy when the
fuel burns, which produces mechanical energy to push the pistons, spin the
crankshaft and drive the vehicle down the road. As efficient as today's
engines are, they still waste a lot of the heat energy they produce. The
average gasoline engine is only about 25 percent (depending on your vehicle)
efficient. That means over two-thirds of the heat produced by each gallon of
fuel either goes out the tailpipe or is soaked up by the engine itself.
Diesels provide for a little more bang for the buck, as they provide
about 35 percent, but even that leaves a lot of waste heat that must be
managed and carried away by the cooling system. Interestingly, the
hotter an engine runs the more efficient it becomes. But there's a limit
because aluminum pistons and heads (that is what your engine is mostly
composed of) can only get so hot before they start to soften and melt. The
same goes for cast iron. Most engines today are
designed to operate within a "normal" temperature range of about
195 to 220 degrees F. A relatively constant operating temperature is
absolutely essential for proper emissions control, good fuel economy and
performance. A 50/50 mixture of water and
ethylene glycol antifreeze in the cooling system will boil at 225 degrees if
the cap is open. But as long as the system is sealed and holds pressure, a
radiator cap rated at 15 psi will increase the boiling temperature of a 50/50
coolant blend up to 265 degrees. If the concentration of antifreeze to water
is raised to 70/30 (the maximum), the boiling temperature under 15 psi (look
on top of your radiator cap) of pressure goes up to 276 degrees. Signs and consequences if the
engine overheats the first thing that will happen is
a gasoline engine will start to detonate. The engine will ping and start to
lose power under load as the combination of heat and pressure exceed the
octane rating of the fuel. If the detonation problem persists, the
hammer-like blows may damage the rings, pistons or rod bearings. Overheating can also cause pre-ignition.
Hot spots develop inside the combustion chamber that become a source of
ignition for the fuel. The erratic combustion can cause detonation as well as
engine run-on in older vehicles with carburetors. Hot spots can also be very
damaging and burn holes right through the top of pistons. Another consequence of
overheating may be a blown head gasket. Heat makes aluminum swell almost
three times faster than cast iron. The resulting stress can
distort the head and make it swell in areas that are hottest, like those
between exhaust valves in adjoining cylinders, and areas that have restricted
coolant flow like the narrow area that separates the cylinders. The typical
aluminum head swells most in the middle, which can crush the head gasket if
the head gets hot enough. This will cause a loss of torque in the gasket
allowing coolant and combustion leaks to occur when the head cools. Overheating can be caused by
anything that decreases the cooling system's ability to absorb, transport and
dissipate heat, such as a low coolant level, loss of coolant (through
internal or external leaks), poor heat conductivity inside the engine because
of accumulated deposits in the water jackets, a defective thermostat that
doesn't open, poor airflow through the radiator, a slipping fan clutch, an
inoperative electric cooling fan, a collapsed lower radiator hose, an eroded
or loose water pump impeller or even a defective radiator cap. Heat always flows from an
area of higher temperature to an area of lesser temperature, never the other
way around. The only way to cool hot metal, therefore, is to keep it in
constant contact with a cooler liquid. And the only way to do that is to keep
the coolant in constant circulation. As soon as the circulation stops, either
because of a problem with the water pump, thermostat or loss of coolant,
temperatures begin to rise and the engine starts to overheat. The coolant also has to get
rid of the heat it soaks up while passing through the block and head(s). So the radiator must be capable of doing its job, which
requires the help of an efficient cooling fan at slow speeds. Finally, the thermostat must
be doing its job to keep the engine's average temperature within the normal
range. If the thermostat fails to open, it will effectively block the flow of
coolant and the engine will overheat.
Coolant should be changed at least every two years or 30,000 miles or it will lose its effectiveness, and the mixture of antifreeze and water should always be 50/50. |
Answer: Generally, no. Unless your policy states otherwise, no one can tell you to obtain more than one estimate. You, as the car owner, may do so, should this be your desire.
Answer: Generally, no. No one can force you to go to a certain repair shop unless your policy states otherwise.
Answer: Take your vehicle to a reputable repair shop. Leave it with the manager. Instruct the manager to contact your insurance company and advise them as to the damage. You should then call your insurance company and advise them of the vehicle's location.
Answer: Try to collect from the other party because you will not have to pay a deductible. Also, if you use the other person's policy, you may be entitled to a rental car while yours is being repaired, and no accident should be charged against your policy.
Answer: You are. You may direct your insurance company to pay the repair shop, but the payment must be in the hands of the repair agency when you pick up your vehicle. Keep in mind, you are the customer and the insured. The repair shop owner looks to you for payment and you look to the insurance company for payment.
Answer: Generally, the repair shop is responsible.
Answer: You are the owner of the automobile. Only you have the legal right to make arrangements for the repair of your automobile, not the insurance company.
Answer: Generally, no. Unless your policy provides otherwise, it is not mandatory to take your vehicle to a drive-in claims service. Usually it will suffice for you to call your insurance company and tell them where the vehicle can be examined by a claim’s person.
Answer: Generally, no. However, if you decide to take your car to the preferred shop, ask your insurance company to implement its "elects to repair" clause (check your insurance policy). This may cause the insurance company to be responsible for, among other things, the quality of repairs.
Answer: Perhaps, yes, but the commissioner's authority is limited! The commissioner's office in your state can describe the scope of authority for you.
Answer: Generally, no. You should be presented an estimate to know what is being repaired on your vehicle before repairs are made, unless your policy states otherwise. A Final
Word... Most state laws make it
unlawful for any person to operate any motor vehicle that is unsafe or has
defective equipment. Insist on having your vehicle restored to its
pre-accident condition. Do not be pressured into having repair work done by a
specific shop simply because of lower price. The owners of some repair shops have pledged their shops to a rigid code of ethics. This code is designed to protect you and your property. Seek out these shops. |
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Preparing your car for
sale.
A clean, shiny car gives the impression that you care about the car and have maintained it in good condition. On the other hand, a dirty car does exactly the opposite, and may devalue your car in the eyes of a potential buyer. If the car is nearly new, you may want to take it to a professional detailed and have them clean the interior, exterior and engine. You should
fix any broken items that are easy to replace, such as lenses and headlights,
you don't want to give a buyer a reason to not buy your car. The better the
car looks the broader of an appeal the car has, even if you don't get more
money for it, you will probably sell it quicker.
Sell your car "as
is." You are not a dealer and you are not required to provide any type
of warranty on the car. But be careful that you don't intentionally
misrepresent the vehicle's condition, or the buyer "may have some legal
recourse". Include a statement in your
bill of sale that the car is sold "as is," and keep a copy of the
bill of sale for your records. The bill of sale will establish the date of
sale and help protect you from any further liability. Always ask for payment in the form of a cashier's check or money order to avoid any problems that can result from a personal check. Cash is ok, but provides no actual proof of exchange of monies. If you do, make out a receipt and both of you sign and date it. The convenience of trading in
your car is obvious, you encounter no advertising cost, no test drives to arrange,
and no potential legal actions, if your recently sold car breaks down. Once a
car is in the dealer's hands, it's the dealer's responsibility to prepare it
and handle the resale. Trading in your old car is the easiest way to go. In
fact, because even dealers of used cars generally want your trade-in, they
make the procedure as easy as possible. Trading in a car is usually a same
day transaction with minimal stress. The dealer assesses the condition of
your car, its age, and other factors and determines its worth (trade in
value) Trade-in value is generally lower than the amount you could sell the car for yourself, but by trading in you save time, effort and potential after sale headaches. When you trade in your car to a dealer, you walk away, your task done! Selling a car on your own is the best way to obtain high dollar, and it may be your only option if you are buying your next vehicle through a private-party sale. But be aware of the work involved. Preparing your vehicle for sale will take time, and depending on its condition may also cost you some money. Be sure to fix things well enough to avoid running into possible legal problems later on from your buyer, rare but always a possibility. Take the time to examine both
the trade-in and suggested retail values listed in the (Kelley Blue Book) for your
car, you can determine an asking price somewhere between them. Also check
your local newspaper's classifieds, car trader magazines and on-line sales containing
used-car ads in order to determine local market pricing. Look for listings of
vehicles similar to yours and compare their asking prices. Using multiple
sources helps assure that you arrive at a fair and realistic asking price. The next step is to advertise
and field phone calls. Since most private party vehicles are sold through
local classifieds or used car publications, start by placing ads in those but
be prepared to advertise in multiple sources. Remember to calculate the costs
involved. Consider that, sometimes a takes a week or months to sell your car.
Other times, the first day. To save a lot
of trouble, set a realistic price, pre-set the lowest amount you will settle
for. It is best to sell the car in the evenings or on week-ends. Set up your
advertising in that manner. When you finally sell your car, you must sign the title over to them, and notify your insurance company of your actions, as well as a state required pertaining to the sale of an auto. |
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Maintenance:
Keep the cable
connections clean and tight. If the battery has caps (many newer batteries
have sealed tops, so you do not have to add water) that let you check the
water level, keep it an inch down from the top of the cell. Your battery
should be tightly clamped down, so it can't move. Keep in mind that colder temperatures increase thickness of the engine oil, making the engine harder to turn over. The battery is not dead, it is simply having to work harder. Note: If you place the jumper
cables on the wrong terminals, your battery or the battery from the vehicle
providing the jump-start, could very possibly explode. VERY DANGEROUS!!! Jump-starting: If the battery is sound but too weak to start your car,
the alternator will probably be able to recharge it as you drive. The first
thing is to attempt jump-starting, this will often do the job. Before you get
out the cables for jump starting, check your vehicle's owner's manual.
Various manufactures advise against jump-starting to protect the car's
electronics from a power surge. In addition, some batteries
have a "state of charge" indicator. A fully charged battery has a
colored indicator, usually green (sometimes red). Black or clear means the
battery is completely discharged and you should not try to recharge or
jump-start it. Also, never try a jump-start if the battery's frozen. If your
battery is deformed (bulging), it must be replaced. Make sure to follow the
procedure below, EXACTLY! -Locate
the battery. It
has two terminals, each marked with a symbol: - for the negative and + for
the positive. In some cars, the battery is difficult to reach, so there is
often a more accessible remote positive terminal in the engine compartment. -The good
battery must be similar to the one in the car that won't start. The battery you use to jump start
your car, must have a 12-volt system, years ago, many older cars may have
six-volt systems. Move the car with the good battery close enough for the
cables (many cables are 12' long) to reach the car needing a start. -Turn off
the ignition
and all
accessories on both cars; set parking brakes; put transmissions in park
(automatic) or neutral (manual). -Connect the cables in this sequence! 1. Connect one cable to the positive terminal of the weak or dead
battery. A.
-Start the engine of the car with the "good battery" and let it idle. It is best to allow
it to charge the dead battery at least two minutes before attempting to start
the car with the low or dead battery. B. -Start
the car with the bad battery. -After you jumped start the car and it is running, disconnect the negative cable from its ground connection, then from the terminal on the good battery. Next, disconnect the positive cable from both batteries. If the charging system warning lamp stays lit and the engine dies, your alternator or battery are in need of replacement. If the light on the dash panel goes out, there's a pretty good chance the battery will recharge as you drive. Replacing
your Battery: When shopping, remember that
a battery is rated by cold cranking amps (CCA), indicating its power and the
reserve capacity rating (RC), which indicates how long your car's accessories
can run and still have enough power to start the engine. Since starting a car in cold weather
can take up to twice as much current to turn over a cold engine, cars in
colder climates would benefit from a higher CCA rating. Check your owner's
manual for the original equipment manufacturers (OEM) minimum requirements
needed for your car and select the battery adequate for you needs. Buying one
with an excessive CCA rating may be a waste of money. The more RC (reserve) the new battery has, the better, like a little extra shot of juice. The size and number of plates in a battery determine how many amps it can deliver. By having more and/or large plates, you can increase the normal life of the battery. This is what distinguishes a three-year from a five-year warranty battery. If your battery is the type that needs to be topped off, check it regularly, especially in hot weather |
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Automotive batteries need little attention. If your battery has removable vents, check the water level and add good drinking-quality water (distilled water is preferred) as necessary to maintain the level just below, but not touching the bottom of the vent (just below filling caps) wells. This will help extend the life of the battery. The green light (look down into a 1/4'" hole) on top of your battery indicates a healthy charged battery. |
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Oil Stain Tip: When you want to get rid of oil stains and drops on your concrete garage or concrete driveway. Wipe up as best you can, and sprinkle Portland cement on it. Do not sweep off. After about two weeks, the stain(s) will fade or diminish. |
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Do not park your car over tall grass or piles of dry leaves. Your catalytic converter gets very hot (which is normal), and it is hot enough to start a fire in the dry grass and leaves. The catalytic converter
beneath your car is part of the automobile exhaust system. It converts
harmful compounds in exhaust into harmless compounds. In a typical passenger
car, the catalytic converter, which is similar in shape to your muffler, is
between the engine and the muffler. The unit relies on receiving the proper
mix of exhaust gases at the proper temperature. Any additives or malfunctions
that cause the mixture or the temperature of the exhaust gases to change
reduce the effectiveness and life of the catalytic converter. Catalytic converters have
been standard on U.S. automobiles since the mid-1970s. The catalytic
converter helped push toward the exclusive use of "unleaded
gasoline". Leaded gasoline contaminates the catalyst used inside a
catalytic converter, destroying its usefulness and leading to a clogged
converter. After the engine exhaust
gases pass through the catalytic converter, the gases go through the muffler.
Some vehicles use a pre-converter as well, to perform a similar function. The
catalytic converter generally lasts the life of the vehicle, actually it is
rare to experience a problem with it being clogged or plugged or poisoned,
during its lifetime. The inside of the catalytic
converter resembles a bee hive with tunnels and passage ways coated with
catalysts. There are many passages for the exhaust gases to flow, allowing
for a maximum amount of surface area for the hot gases to pass. Catalytic converters become
useless in the presence of lead due to catalyst poisoning. Catalytic converters
must only be run on unleaded gasoline. Catalyst poisoning occurs
when a chemical in the engine exhaust coats the surface of the catalyst,
preventing further exhaust access to the catalytic materials. Poisoning can
sometimes be reversed by running the engine under a very heavy load for an
extended period of time to raise exhaust gas temperature Common catalyst
poisons are lead, sulfur, zinc, manganese, silicon
and phosphorus. Removal of sulfur from a
catalyst surface by running heated exhaust gases over the catalyst surface is
often successful; however, removal of lead deposits in this manner is usually
not possible because of lead's high boiling point. In particularly bad cases
of catalyst poisoning by lead, the catalytic converter can actually become
completely plugged with lead residue. Of late, the theft of converters has skyrocketed, due to the precious (Platinum, Palladium and Rhodium) metals used in the production of the converters. Unfortunately, the units are easily removed, especially on SUV's, which are easy to crawl underneath for quick removal of the unit. As to being able to tell of your catalytic converter is functioning properly, the only way to find out if a catalytic converter is malfunctioning (plugged) is to remove it and check the change in engine performance, this of course being done by a mechanic. Although, sometimes you can tell that a converter is clogged because your car will not go any faster when you push the gas pedal. Also, there usually is a noticeable drop in gas mileage associated with a clogged catalytic converter |
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Gasoline pumps are commonly labeled regular, mid-grade, or premium. The difference in the fuel is the octane number. Regular is usually 87, mid-grade 89, and premium 92-93. The higher the octane number the more the fuel resists combusting under compression. If the octane rating is too low for your engine, the engine may “ping” due to the fuel igniting prematurely. It is wise to use the recommended octane number that is listed in your owner’s manual. Use higher octane fuel only if your engine “pings” or “knocks”. If your engine runs fine on the recommended octane number, stay with that grade of fuel and not waste money on a premium fuel. Use
Lower-octane gasoline: Buy the lowest grade or octane of gasoline that is appropriate
for your car. Unless your car requires premium gasoline, filling up your car
with high-octane fuel is a waste of money. That pricey premium fuel won't
boost your car's fuel economy or performance in the least, so skip it. If
you're not sure what grade of fuel works best for your car, open up your
owner's manual and take a look. As long as your engine doesn't knock or ping
when you fuel up with regular unleaded, you're good to drive on this much
cheaper gas. Passing on pricey premium gasoline could save you hundreds of
dollars a year. Don't top off: when
filling your car's gas tank. Any additional gas is just going to slop around
or seep out. Stop pumping at the first indication that your tank is full when
the automatic nozzle clicks off. Also, gas will evaporate from your car's gas
tank if it has an escape. Be sure to tighten up that gas cap each time you
fuel up your car. |
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Tire Wear and Directional
Control Camber, toe and toe-out on
turns are tire-wear angles. If out of alignment, the tires will wear unevenly
and faster than normal. Because camber is related to steering axis
inclination, inclination can be considered a tire wearing angle. All
alignment angles are directional control angles, which means they affect
steering and vehicle control, such as the car traveling to the left or right,
you having to always compensate for its pull. Caster is the tilt of the steering axis of
each front wheel as viewed from the side of the vehicle. Caster is measured
in degrees of an angle. If the steering axis tilts backward-that is, the
upper ball joint or strut mounting point is behind the lower ball joint-the
caster angle is positive. If the steering axis tilts forward, the caster
angle is negative. Caster is not measured for rear wheels. Caster affects straight-line
stability and steering wheel return. High positive caster makes the front
wheels want to go straight ahead. A normal amount of positive caster provides
stability and makes the steering wheel straighten out after turning. On the
other hand, positive caster increases the effort needed to turn the wheel.
Power steering allows the use of more positive caster than would be
acceptable with manual steering. Too little caster can make
steering unstable and cause wheel shimmy. Extremely negative caster and the
related shimmy can contribute to cupped wear of the front tires. If caster is
unequal from side to side, the vehicle will pull toward the side with less
positive caster. Camber is the tilt of the wheel from true
vertical as viewed from the front of the vehicle. Like caster, camber is
measured in degrees of an angle. If the tire appears to tilt outward at the
top, the camber angle is positive. If the top of the tire tilts inward, the
camber angle is negative. You will not have uneven wear on your tires. Zero camber-a perfectly
vertical wheel and tire-causes the least tire wear. Positive camber causes
the outer tread of the tire to wear more than the inner tread; negative
camber has the opposite effect. Your car is designed with small amounts of
positive or negative camber into vehicle suspensions to aid handling and
steering. Normal camber angles have little visible effect on tire wear, but
extreme camber causes irregular tire wear and shortens tire life. Positive camber, like
positive caster, affects straight-ahead stability and steering wheel return.
As the vehicle turns, the outside suspension tends to rise on the wheel
because of positive camber. When the wheel returns to straight ahead, the
vehicle's weight presses down on the steering axis and helps straighten the
wheel. Negative camber resists the
tendency of the tire to slip sideways during cornering. It also can increase
steering effort. Most cars and light trucks are designed with positive
camber, but many race cars and some high-performance street vehicles have
negative camber. Rear wheels usually have zero
camber, but some independent rear suspensions are designed with some amount
of (usually negative) camber angle. If front camber angles are unequal side
to side, the vehicle pulls toward the side with the greater positive camber.
Unequal rear camber also can affect vehicle handling. Toe is how the wheels are aimed, as
viewed from above. A pair of front or rear wheels aimed inward at the forward
edges has toe-in; wheels aimed outward have toe-out. The toe angle for front
or rear wheels is measured in fractions of an inch, millimeters or fractions
of a degree. Zero toe-wheels aimed
straight ahead causes the least tire wear. Extreme toe-in or toe-out causes
feather-- edged wear across the tire tread. Too much toe-in wears the outside
tread edges, with feathered edges on the inside of each tread row. Too much
toe-- out has the opposite effect. Front wheels are usually toed in on rear drive vehicles and toed out on front drives to compensate for changes in the steering linkage and tires when the vehicle is moving. When the vehicle is moving, toe decreases because the wheels straighten out under acceleration and the steering linkage slightly moves. |
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They are
convenient, they are time servers, they are wonderful in an emergency and
they are a DEATHLY DISTRACTION, while
driving. The number of accidents now due to Texting and Cell phone use while
driving, is exponential in causing accidents. Hands free are an improvement,
but it still a serious distraction to safe driving. But, at least your hands
are free and you are not providing blind spots. |
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Always dim your high-beam lights, when approaching other vehicles. “Your inaction", could very well cause an accident, with you! |
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About
every twelve minutes, someone in the U.S. dies from a motor vehicle crash.
Trying to prevent these crashes is one part of motor vehicle safety. Here are
some things you can do to be safer on the road: Most deaths in traffic
accidents are due to the occupants being thrown from the vehicle. BECAUSE
they were not wearing their seat belt. -Avoid
distractions |
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Never use your cruise control when driving in wet weather. If your auto begins to hydroplane, it will speed up and you will be further out of control. |
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The Single Broken line, The solid line with no
break, The large lines separated by a large gap or wide solid line(s). |
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NEVER DRIVE IN THE RAIN WITH YOUR CRUISE CONTROL
ON. If the cruise control is on when your car begins to hydro-plane and your tires lose contact with the pavement, your car will accelerate to a higher rate of speed making you take off like an airplane |
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The sound of metal scraping is a
sure sign that you have a brake problem. Brakes have varying
types of problems, almost always coming from the lack of lining to pads or
problems with the calipers. Sometimes you can sense a problem because your
car will pull to the left or right (not always a brake condition, sometimes
front-end alignment or tire problem.) when you apply the brakes. Whenever you
have an irregular feel while driving have your brakes inspected. Your
brakes can become weak due
to overuse. The brake lining becomes hardened and they lose their power to
grab or stop the rotation of the brake drum or rotor. If you experience a
brake fluid lead, your brakes will be soaked up the fluid; you can also have
a problem with oil or grease, which causes your brakes to become weak.
If you have worn or glazed brake pads you will get grinding noises from the
brakes. Sometimes it may happen that your emergency brakes are frozen due to
rust. If such things occur the brakes will not release when they are supposed
to. As a result, you will feel a drag during acceleration. Have a annual brake
inspection performed by your mechanic. He is going to
check the brake pads from outside the front tire or through the openings of
the wheel or rim. If the mechanic notes a pad depth less than ¼ inch, he
will suggest that you change it immediately. You also need to
change the brake pad if you hear a screeching sound on applying the brakes.
If you see any fluid leakage or uneven pad wear know that you have to change
the disk brake calipers. |
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· Don’t
drink and drive. Don't drive when you're taking medication that will Always wear your seat belt. Obey the speed limits. Slow down when road and
weather conditions are Don't take risks: don't cut people off in traffic,
make sudden lane changes Don't drive when you’re tired, upset or sick. If you're in doubt, let the other driver go first
— yield the right-of-way. keep a two-second space between your vehicle and
the one ahead. To Cut the distractions: don’t overcrowd the vehicle
or play loud music. Always check your blind spot:
look in your mirror and over your shoulder before you change lanes.
Check traffic in all directions before going into an
intersection. The Legal Speed Limit
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Know these: |
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FUELING
TIP: Do not purchase gasoline
when the tanker trucks are filling the stations tanks. |
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DON'T GET
DISTRACTED |
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Quick Tip: When polishing aluminum
or chrome wheels on your car, it is unnecessary to buy expensive wheel
polish. You may find that ordinary, white toothpaste works just as well. |
Purchase it at the
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Maintain
the proper air pressure in your automobile tires, it aids in better gas
mileage, better ride, tire life and safety. To prolong tire life, check air
pressure monthly. Keep tires inflated to the recommended (found in your
owner’s manual) PSI. Non-detergent
oil:
Most vehicle manufacturers
recommend changing the oil once a year or every 7,500 miles in passenger car
and light truck gasoline engines. For diesel engines and turbocharged
gasoline engines, the usual recommendation is every 3,000 miles or six
months. "Normal" driving is
actually "severe service" driving. This includes frequent short
trips, stop-and-go city traffic driving, driving in dusty conditions, and
driving at sustained highway speeds during hot weather. For this type of driving,
which is actually "severe service: driving, the recommendation is to
change the oil every 3,000 miles or six months. For maximum protection, most oil companies say to change the oil every 3,000 miles or three to six months regardless of what type of driving you do. A new engine with little or
no wear can probably get by on 7,500-mile oil changes. But as an engine
accumulates miles it should be done more often. To reduce the
costs of vehicle ownership and maintenance, many car makers suggest the oil
filter needs to be replaced at every other oil change. If you ask a mechanic,
he will tell you every time you change the oil. -Follow the manufacturer's recommended change interval for severe service or have an oil analysis performed to see if you can use the normal service interval -If you do the oil changes yourself then buy the oil and filters near the date of the oil change and keep a maintenance log with receipts -Use an API certified 5W30 or 10W30 oil (whatever your manual says is preferred) and watch out for oil change places that force 10W30 on you -Don't use oil additives -Synthetic oil is a good choice if you have a high-performance engine or if you live in an extremely cold climate, otherwise it provides no benefit (but no harm either). -Avoid engine flushes -Check your oil after every other fill-up. OIL FACTS 10W30 Vs 5W30: 10W30 is a one size fits all oil. Many older vehicles need 10W30, and most newer vehicles are okay with it in warmer climates. Many fast lube centers do not want to carry every type of oil, so many choose to carry only 10W30, which is ok, as long as it is does not violate your automotive warranty. (check your owner’s manual) ENGINE AIR FILTERS: |
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DUCT TAPE
TIP: |
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Has
Your Car’s Safety Net Been Compromised? (ARA) – Are
you driving around in a vehicle that’s an accident waiting to happen? If you
have chips or cracks in your windshield, the answer may be “Yes.” |
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Under
Lemon Law legislation, most states allow new vehicle purchasers to choose
either a replacement or a refund if the vehicle can't be repaired after a
reasonable number of attempts. Lemon laws apply only to new vehicles,
ignoring used vehicles are entirely void of any inclusion. If you have a
leased lemon, you'll need to talk to your leasing company, as most state's
lemon laws do not apply to leased vehicles. You may need to contact the
state's Attorney General's Office in addition to your own attorney if the
dealership and manufacturer remain uncooperative. Keep
in mind, even if your car is a lemon, you are responsible for paying back
your loan, no matter what happens to the vehicle. The manufacturer or
dealer/seller is legally responsible for any problems you encounter, not the
lender. After
you purchase your vehicle from your friendly and honest dealer, legally their
obligation is over, and yours begins, when you sign the sales purchase
agreement and drive away. In most states’ consumer products are covered
by 3-day Right to Rescind (buyer's remorse) laws. Unfortunately, motor
vehicle sales and leasing contracts usually aren't covered. Contact your
state's Attorney General's Office for more information on buyer's-remorse law
in your state. If you find you don't like the car you bought, you're
generally out of luck. If you bought a car from a private party, you have no
recourse other than through your attorney or small-claims court.
Returning a leased vehicle is virtually impossible due to the amount of
depreciation, paperwork, and fees involved. If you believe you've been
misled by a dealer, and have documentation to prove it, contact your state's
Attorney General's Office and Department of Motor Vehicles (DMV). If
either feels you have a case, you'll need an attorney as well. Licensed dealers in all states are required to transfer title, registration and tags within a reasonable period of time, this is normally 7 to 45 days depending on your state. If a month has passed since your vehicle's delivery and you haven't received your registration or title in the mail, call the dealer and ask for an explanation. If they cannot provide you with a satisfactory answer, call your state Attorney General, and ask for their intervention. |
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Quick
Tip:
Your front wheel brakes wear out twice as fast as your rear brakes. Front
brakes should last about 35,000 miles |
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A spare tire and full of air. A car jack
and lug wrench |
Obey the Laws, Driving is not a
right, it is a Privilege
(Recall Database)
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DID YOU KNOW? "Over 80 percent of everything we consume, wear or drive, travels by truck. At any given time, there is only approximately 72 hours of food on our grocery shelves". Be ready |
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-To
remove smudges and other small paint scratches (from shopping carts, etc.,
try using Goof off, it is a great product.
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Quick
Tip:
Install new
windshield wipers, annually, or more often, if necessary. |
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Your automatic transmission is a marvel in engineering,
dating back to early 1900. The main difference between a manual and an
automatic transmission is that the manual transmission locks and unlocks different
sets of gears to the shaft to achieve the various gear ratios, while in an
automatic transmission, the same set of gears produces all of the different
gear ratios. The transmission uses gears to make more effective use of the
engine's torque, and to keep the engine operating at an appropriate unbroken
speed. |
Click below for
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