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We come from the earth, we return to the earth, and in between
we garden.
--Author unknown |
Squirrels
and other local wildlife aren’t respecters of planted items, so they may see
your beautiful pot of soil as a great place to stash their nuts and spare food.
To protect your seedlings from squirrels and birds in your
garden, purchase inexpensive wastebaskets from the local dollar store with
holes to protect the seeds as they grow. Another
option is to add ingredients to your soil that squirrels dislike. Here are some
items that homeowners have had varying success using to deter squirrels from
digging in their potted plants:
| QuickTip: HOMEMADE MIRACLE GROW INGREDIANTS:
INSTRUCTION: Mix together and use once a month on all plants. |
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First things first!
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Angiosperm -Broad Leaved- ( Hardwoods)
Deciduous: Ash, Aspen, Basswood, Birch, Cherry, Coffee Tree, Cottonwood, Elm,
Hickory, Honeylocust, Maple(s), Mulberry, Oak,
Poplar, Walnut. |
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Birches are deciduous trees
in the family Betulacea. The word "birch"
originates from ancient Sanskrit language meaning "tree bark used for
writing on". It is believed that the bark of these trees was once used
for paper similar to papyrus. There are many varieties of
birches, but the more common ones you see native to this area are called
river birch (Betula nigra). They love acidic, wet
or even flooded areas, but can survive dry, alkaline soils, although, in
these soils their leaves may turn yellow and drop. They seem to tolerate
extreme heat, but need plenty of water to keep their leaves from burning and
dropping. If you plant a birch, be ready for it to be a fast grower and reach
up to approximately 40 feet wide and 70 feet tall by the time it’s 30 years
old. So, in other words, give birches plenty of room to grow. River birch, Betula nigra, a
native tree to river and creek banks, and has interesting bark as well. This
tree has a cinnamon colored peeling bark that has excitement in all four
seasons. The leaves on this tree are small, and the canopy is not dense,
allowing the bark to be visible in and out of leaf. This tree will reach 50',
and is considered a medium grower. This tree will thrive in moist soils, but
lucky for us, it is very versatile, adapting to drier locations as well. In a
grouping of three or five, this selection is outstanding. Use it as a plant
grouping in the yard, or as a single tree in a foundation planting. Grown in
clumps or single stemmed allows for a variety of design styles, from a more
natural look to a formal appearance. The leaves of river birches
are usually glossy and dark green on their upper side, lighter green on the
underside. The leaves tend to be shaped like diamonds; hence they look as
though they are flickering in a breeze. Birches produce male catkins up to 3
inches long and female flowers up to an inch long, but the flowers are not
significant or showy. While birches tend to lose their leaves a little
earlier in autumn, if they are not deprived of moisture, they will display
beautiful golden, yellow and brown leaves with cinnamon-colored twigs and
branches. While all of the birches have
their unique elegance, some are more adaptable and disease and pest resistant
than others for this area. Since the river birch is a native of this area,
that makes it more adaptable than some of its cousins like paper birch or
European white birch. Heritage or "Cully" cultivar tends to be
resistant to the Bronze Birch Borer and in general considered the most
trouble free. Heritage is also known for being more resistant to leaf spot
and its bark is a rich creamy color, as it peels away from an almost orange
colored trunk. River birches tend to be susceptible to aphids and caterpillars
under less than ideal conditions. As mentioned earlier, birches
come in single trunks and multi-trunks (called clumps). They tend to send up
new shoots from the ground, so you may want to cut these off for a cleaner
look and to reveal more of the interesting bark. I often trim the branches of
my birches up to about 3 feet from the ground so I can enjoy that intriguing
bark revealed beneath a wispy canopy. Birches are beautiful whether
they are planted in landscape gardens or alone as a specimen tree. While
white birches are popular because of their beautiful stark white bark, the
river birch has more subtle, rich, creamy colors and adds its own beauty to
just about any landscape. They are easy to transplant and do well when
transplanted in the spring or fall when rainfall is heavier. They need little
or no maintenance once they become established, and under ideal conditions
will even naturalize. The scaly bark so characteristic of birches, makes them
ideal providers of year-round interest for your garden. After the leaves fall
in autumn, you will continue to enjoy the richly textured hues of cream,
brown and cinnamon bark throughout winter. |
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Tip:
Make sure that your garden slopes away from the house. |
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Quick Tip: Prevent mosquitoes from breeding in rain
barrels by floating 1 teaspoon of olive oil on the water's surface (It is
lighter than water) |
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CHRYSANTHEMUMS |
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Is
an entire genus within Asteraceae, are the next largest group of flowers many people think of
as daisies? Many Chrysanthemums appear very similar to the English daisy,
with white petals and a yellow center. Others come in decorative colors,
ranging from vibrant pinks and blues to deep purples and reds. The most
common Chrysanthemum, grown in parts of Asia as a food crop, is Chrysanthemum
coronarium;
this flower, also known as the crown daisy, appears very similar to the
English daisy, but with yellow petals as well as a yellow center.
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Aphids are small, 1/16- to 1/8-inch-long (2-4 mm),
pear-shaped, soft-bodied insects. They can range in color from green,
black, red, yellow, brown or gray. Mature aphids can be wingless or can have wings. Winged aphids are similar in color but are a little darker. Immature aphids (nymphs) look like adults but are smaller. The best way to identify aphids is to check for two
tail pipes (cornicles) found at the end of the abdomen. All aphids have
cornicles, but some are smaller and less obvious. Aphids
shed their exoskeletons (skins) as they grow. These white cast skins
can be found on leaves or stuck in honeydew secretions of the aphid.
APHIDS
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Most clematis species are
vines, and the most widely-grown vines are the so-called "large-flowered
clematis" like Nelly Moser (pink), Duchess of Edinburgh (double white),
and Jackmanii (dark purple). There are hundreds of
varieties, and most require the same basic, if somewhat confusing, cultural
conditions: partial to full sun exposure with protection for the roots,
regular watering without waterlogging, heavy feeding, and soil that ranges
from pH neutral to slightly acidic. The most important of these
requirements is "good light, protected roots." You can provide this
by mulching the base of the plant heavily, or by placing low-growing
companion plantings at the base of the plant, or by growing the plant through
an upturned terra-cotta pot with its bottom knocked out. (This is more
confusing to describe than it is to do. You just have to start with a small
plant.) Vining clematis also need a
support: they're not wall-crawlers like ivies, but their tendrils will wrap
around just about anything, including other parts of the plant. There are
creeping and shrub-like clematis as well. Although my own experience with the
coarse C. heracleifolia "Wyevale" has
been less than stellar, I have seen clematis species used as effective ground
covers and borders. Many of the spring-blooming
varieties provide restrained repeat bloom throughout the season. Clematis usually take several
years to become established, so it's important not to become discouraged too
quickly. They are also fragile when handled: treat the plant gently until it
is settled in. Once they're happy, the plants can become extremely vigorous,
easily growing 8 to 10 feet tall. The fall-blooming clematis like the native
Virgins Bower (C. virginiana), C. terniflora, and
C. vitalba can cover small sheds and slow-moving
animals with a mass of tiny, fragrant white flowers - in fact, they can
become invasive (but still beautiful) weeds. Most, however, are
well-behaved, providing that they are properly pruned. When, how, and if you
prune your clematis are critical but confusing questions. Some flower on the
previous year's wood, some on current growth only. You must learn the pruning
recommendations for the variety you are growing. Many specialty growers are
happy to provide this information when they sell you the plant, and there are
several excellent references available |
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Daffodils
grow perennially from
bulbs.
Depth, as a general rule,
needs to be thrice the height. This means large bulbs should have depth of 6
to 8 inches, medium size 3-6 inches and smaller size 2-3 inches. Always
remember that the load of soil proves helpful to protect the bulbs from
breaking too easily and keep them upright for a longer duration. If this fact
is ignored and enough depth is not given then the Daffodil will bend down
very soon. Though Daffodil blooms will come in bigger clumps, the bulbs and
flowers will be scant. Here are the steps to grow Daffodils. Daffodils are one of the easiest flowers to grow.
Daffodils are famous for the bright yellows of cultivars like the King Alfred,
the Dutch Master, and the Marieke, daffodils come in thousands of colors that
range from the demure whites of paper-whites to lemon yellow, peach and on to
bold orange. Daffodils come in all sizes
from 5-inch blooms on 2-foot stems to half-inch flowers on 2-inch stems.
Along with the early harbingers of spring, there are also daffodil cultivars
in mid and late season varieties. Growing daffodils in an assortment of
sizes, colors, and bloom-times gives you an irresistible display that carries
through spring into summer. Plant outdoor bulbs deep-six
to eight inches down from the top (pointy end) of the bulb- in a location
where they will get plenty of sun. Remember, they're going to make their
appearance when sunshine is at a premium! Also important for growing garden
daffodils is a location with good drainage. Less is more when growing
daffodils. Space your daffodil bulbs according to the package directions.
Although you may be tempted to plant them close together for a great looking
first-year group, it's important to be mindful of the fact that they are
prolific in bulb propagation. Planting daffodils too closely together results
in a crowd of bulbs that fight each other for growing room!
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Digging The first step is to dig them
up. You can dig the clumps before the frost, in which case you need to hang
or lay the entire plant in a protected ventilated area to dry slightly,
allowing the nutrients to return to the roots. Or you can wait until a frost
or two has 'killed the tops, but before the ground has frozen. That way the
nutrients have returned to the roots naturally and you save a step. However,
knowing you may dig clumps either before or after frost allows you "a
wider time range to get the job done. Storage Once the tops are dried, cut
the stems from a few inches to a foot above the bulbs and place them in your
storage medium. Storage media can be vermiculite, perlite, dry sand, peat
moss or layers of dry leaves. The tricky part of storage is that the bulbs
must "never become wet enough to rot or be allowed to completely dry
out. Trial and error will ' be your best instructors. Try ' different options
to see which works best for your situation. It could be your garage or
basement or a shed close to ' the house that stays between 35 and 45 degrees,
the ideal temperature. Be sure to label your plants
clearly; so, you will know 'which colors and varieties are which in the
spring when you go to plant. Winter pests Mice find Dahlia tubers to be
quite a convenient winter snack; so, make sure your containers are rodent
proof. A layer of hardware cloth secured over top an otherwise sound container
works well to allow ventilation and keep out the critters. Dividing The clumps are easiest to
divide if you wait until spring when the buds (also called eyes) are more
apparent. Divide your tubers into the number of plants you want for the
season. If you want many smaller plants divide them into small pieces. If you
want larger but fewer plants, plant clumps without dividing intensely. Make
sure each piece contains at least one eye since that is where the new growth
will emerge. If you Want a jump on the season, plant the tubers in pots a few
weeks before the last frost date but pots must he large enough to hold the
roots and shoots comfortably. Re-planting After all danger of frost has
passed, replant your tubers according to size. Large dahlias should be
planted 6 to 8 inches deep; shorter varieties, 2 to 3 inches plant the tubers
in pots a few deep. At the bottom of the hole, sprinkle a little bulb
fertilizer or compost, then set the tuber with bud or sprouts facing upward
and cover with soil. Space plants apart accordingly: large ones 3 to 4 feet
apart, smaller ones 8 to 12 inches apart. Tall dahlias should be
staked, and now is the best time to insert stakes so you will not damage the
tubers later. |
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Deciduous shrubs lose their foliage in the fall; evergreen
ones do not. They come in a wide variety of heights, shapes, foliage colors,
textures and forms. Taking these factors into consideration when selecting
shrubs can result in a landscape that is both aesthetic and functional.
Shrubs can serve as border plants, accent plants with seasonal color or as
screening for privacy. Determining which shrubs to
include in your garden can be a difficult decision. Depending on choices
made, shrubs may come to take up a majority of the space available on an
average size lot. The best way to make wise choices is to find a good
resource and check out plant material available at local nurseries. Many
shrubs are currently available in smaller sizes. Note that plants native to
the area where you live will be easier to grow and maintain. Here are a few
of my favorites: Glossy abelia is a delightful
shrub. It is exceptionally easy to grow. If necessary, it can be cut back to
emerge again just as beautiful. Although it leaves out later than some
shrubs, the glossy leaves and dainty pink blossoms stay for most of the
summer. Clethra, also called summer sweet,
is another delightful plant. The fragrant white flowers come mid to late
summer. The blossoms are small but form on 3 to 6-inch spikes. This shrub is
very adaptable to a variety of light conditions. It prefers acid soil, and
the leaves turn yellow to golden brown in autumn. Callicarpa or beauty berry
bush is a plant that may seem very plain for most of the year. The flowers in
mid-summer are a non-descript white or pink and almost hidden by the foliage.
But it shows off in the fall when clusters of lilac colored berries form all
along the stems. These last long after the leaves fall. This is a shrub that
can easily be kept at 4 to 6 feet in height and width. If necessary, it can
be cut to within 6 inches of the ground in the spring before growth starts. Calycanthus or Carolina Allspice grow well in
some areas. The blossom, which comes in late spring, is a dark reddish brown.
It has the lovely fragrance of strawberries. This plant can grow 6 to 9 feet
high and just as wide but can be cut back and kept to a manageable size. For
the best flower production, remove 1/3 of the stems each spring. Deutzia has tiny white
5-petaled flowers in mid to late spring, but there are so many blossoms that
the bush appears totally white. Deutzia usually grows 3 or 4 feet in height
and width. It can be used as a hedge. It adapts to almost any soil type and
thrives in sun or partial shade. Prune after it blooms. Lilacs come in many
varieties. There are doubles or single blossoms. You will find white, pink
and all shades of purple. There are dwarf varieties. They grow under almost
any condition, although they flower best in full sun. And best of all the
fragrance really spells spring for many gardeners. Viburnums are another great
choice. This large group of plants numbers about 120 species and contains
numerous cultivars. They range in size from 2-3 feet to 30 feet, in odor from
the sweetest perfume to the most unpleasant smell, in flower from white to
pink (rose) and in fruit color from yellow, orange, red, pink, blue and
black. |
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Flower Tips: Scatter color throughout blanket your flower garden with
petunias, inpatients and other small annuals that will flower throughout the
current growing season. |
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Many beautiful drought tolerant
plants are available in local nurseries and garden stores. They come in a
wide range of colors and sizes. Perennial Bachelors Button
(Centaurea montana). This lovely rounded plant
grows about 12 inches high and 12 inches wide. Its leaves are long and a
silvery green. Flowers are blue and about 2 inches in diameter. With
deadheading (removal of spent flower heads before they go to seed) Centaurea
will bloom from May through September. The one downfall of this plant is that
it spreads by underground runners and may also reseeds itself throughout the
garden. You can take care of this problem by pulling up unwanted seedlings in
the spring. Daylily: There are more than 20,000 registered
hybrids, in colors ranging from yellow, to red to deep purple. They range in
height from 6 inches to over 30 inches. Most bloom only once per summer, but
every year more repeat or continuous bloomers are being developed. The most
famous and earliest repeat bloomer is 'Stella d'Oro'.
The foliage of daylilies stays attractive all summer, although the appearance
of the plant does benefit from removal of spent flower heads and browning
leaves. Daylilies generally need to be divided every 4 or 5 years. Candytuft: Is a great spring-blooming
low-growing plant for the front of the border. The flowers last for about 10
weeks. Its evergreen foliage is dark green and the flowers are pure white.
The plants have a woody base and should be cut back severely every other year
to ensure that they do not get leggy. Black Eyed Susan and
Coneflower
(Echinacea) are well-known summer blooming, daisy-like flowers of similar
habit. They come in yellow, pink and white. Plants typically grow 3 to 4 feet
high, although some dwarf varieties have been developed. These are low
maintenance plants, but deadheading is recommended to improve plant
appearance and prevent reseeding. Many popular annuals are also
quite tolerant of dry conditions. Marigold, Zinnia, Geranium (Pelargonium),
Spider Flower (Cleome), Cosmos, Portulaca,
Nasturtium are just a few. Most herbs are also happy in low water conditions,
as are ornamental grasses. Even drought tolerant plants will not grow completely
without water. Their needs are about 50 percent of the water needs of
non-drought tolerant plants. What should you do to insure their survival?
First of all, now is the time to buy and plant them! We are getting some rain
and weather conditions are somewhat cooler than they will be in June, July
and August. Buying and planting them now, and hand watering them when rain is
insufficient will give them the start, they need to survive a hot, dry
summer. Water your plants infrequently as deeply as your soil drainage
situation permits, rather than doing light, frequent watering. Deep watering
encourages deep root development, which will stand your plants in good stead
when dry, hot summer conditions arrive. There are many more draught
tolerant perennials, as well as trees and shrubs. So, seek our
your nursery supplier for more. |
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Tip: Design
your border in curves for better visual balance, avoid straight lines or
perfect circles |
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Many factors such as soil conditions, weather, and
genetics all contribute to the equation. The whole process is a slow one
and begins as the length of the nights increase. This change in the light
causes the plant to produce phytochrome. Phytochrome is the chemical that
starts the process of dormancy. A layer of cells is produced between the
branch of the tree and the leaf stalk. This layer is called the abscission
layer and it blocks the passage of water and nutrients (carbohydrates) to and
from the leaf. The production of the green pigment, chlorophyll, which is the
predominant pigment, begins to break down. Without the chlorophyll to
color the leaves green we begin to see the other pigments, carotenoids, give
the leaf its yellow, orange and brown color. Now here is where the genetics
fits in. Some trees also have the ability to form another pigment known as
anthocyanin, which gives leaves a red or purple color. For anthocyanins to
form there must be sugar present so any weather condition that enhances the
production and accumulation of sugars in the leaf helps with the intensity of
the red color. Sunny days result in a high
production of carbohydrates in the leaf and cool nights help to break those
carbohydrates down into sugars. The cool nights also help to keep those
sugars in the leaf instead of going to other parts of the plant. When the
skies are cloudy and the nights warm, less sugars are produced and more are
moved from the leaf, leaving us with less intense color. As the abscission layer gets
bigger it divides into two layers. One layer is protective and forms on the
branch. The other is a separation layer and forms on the leaf stalk
(petiole). Once both layers form there is not much left to hold the leaf in
place and down it comes. A popular myth about fall color is that we need a
frost to produce good fall colors The colorful trees for
Fall: The size and character of your own landscape will
determine which woody plants can give you the best chance for fall color. In
the native Northeast landscape, maples are the great color artists,
especially red maples (Acer rubrum). Almost any red maple will give you some
fall color, but there are a number of varieties available that promise
spectacular results (and we all know how accurate those plant catalogs are!)
Try "Red Sunset " or "Autumn Flame". The genus Fothergilla,
another northeastern native, provides spectacular fall color on a much
smaller scale - red maples can reach well over 50', but Fothergilla
is a spring-flowering shrub that rarely reaches 10', depending on species and
variety. There are a number of cultivars on the market, but "Mt.
Airy" is one of the best, and is widely available. Delicious flower
fragrance is another benefit of this desirable shrub. Itea
virginica, known as Virginia sweetspire, is also a
native. The glossy leaves of cultivar "Henry's Garnet" turn a rich
mahogany in fall, and are reason enough to grow the plant even if it didn't
produce drooping 6" spires of tiny white flowers in early summer. The witch hazels are another
multi-season treat, with early flowering, fragrant blooms and good fall color
that seems to be very moisture dependent (this is not a good year for witch
hazel leaf color). Hamamelis x intermedia, a hybrid between H. japonica and
H. mollis, is most commonly found in nurseries in a
number of varieties. "Jelena," "Arnold Promise," and
"Diane" provide orange, yellow, and red flowers respectively.
Viburnums, usually grown for their flowers, often reveal strong muted fall
colors as well, in tones of red, burgundy, and
faded orange. The list could go on, but it's fun to make your own
discoveries. |
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Tip:
Choose climbing or vining flowers to grow near a trellis or garden arbor. |
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There are five basic families
of scented geraniums determined by fragrance: rose, citrus, mint,
fruit/nut/spice, and pungent. The first three are the most commonly used for
their fragrance, especially in cooking. The variety name is not always
indicative of the plant’s real scent; it is best to rely on your own nose
before adding leaves or flowers to food or potpourri. Be certain to use only
organically grown pelargoniums in food. Pelargoniums are tender
perennials, hardy only in zones 9-10. They can be grown in the ground or in
pots; in either case, they must come indoors when outdoor temperatures go
below 45 degrees. Outdoors they thrive in full sun, except for the peppermint
varieties, which will grow in the sun but are happier in shade or semi-shade.
The flowers of all pelargoniums tend to be small, but the textures and colors
of the leaves are a beautiful addition to any garden. They can be planted in
borders, as ground covers, in rock gardens, or in mass plantings. Planted in
the ground, the same plants will grow so large that they can be difficult to
bring in before the frost. In this case, take cuttings in late summer to grow
smaller plants for bringing indoors for winter. To take a cutting from a
healthy stem, cut just below a node and strip off most of the leaves. The use
of rooting hormones is not necessary, but if they contain a fungicide, they
may be helpful when used at their mildest strength. Cuttings will root in a
variety of well-drained media, but not in water (unlike your grandmother’s
red geraniums). Sterile sand, perlite, or a commercial starting mix is
satisfactory. Don’t place the new cuttings in direct sun or use bottom heat
for the first 24 hours, after which bottom heat of 68-76 degrees helps speed
root formation. Keep moist but not wet. The smaller-leaved, short-stemmed
varieties such as ‘Apple,’ ‘Coconut,’ etc. are best propagated by seed in a
sterile medium. Indoors in pots with a soilless
mix and good drainage, give pelargoniums all the sunlight you can, regular
watering, and relative coolness. Daytime temperatures of 65-70 degrees with
an evening drop of about 10 degrees are ideal. They will also need good air
circulation. Water early in the morning when the top of the soil feels dry.
During the growing season, fertilize at half-strength every other watering;
the rest of the year, fertilize at the same dosage once every eight watering’s.
A teaspoon of Epsom salts added to the fertilizer solution every fourth
watering will give your plants the extra magnesium they need. When ready to
transplant out, be sure to harden off first and cut the bottom half inch of
roots and soil off to encourage new root growth. Pelargoniums prefer a
slightly acid soil, pH of 6.0 to 6.5, and soil that is well drained. Use a
balanced fertilizer, such as 15-15-15; switching to 10-15-10 when plants show
signs of budding. Pinch growing tips until desired shape is achieved. Outdoor pelargoniums do not
usually have many pests. Indoors, they are subject to mealybugs, whitefly,
aphids, and, sometimes spider mites. Strong sprays of water will dislodge the
insects; follow up with insecticidal soap every few days until pests are
gone. To prevent diseases, provide your plants good ventilation, careful
watering (avoid watering the leaves as much as possible), sterile pots and
potting soil, and prompt removal of dead leaves. |
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QT: Inexpensive killer of snails & slugs: Beer placed in
shallow pans with the top edges flush with the ground. |
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QT:
To water individual plants or plants in containers, rather than a hose end sprayer
nozzle, the better tool is a watering can, or a hose-end watering wand.
A watering wand has a water breaker with many tiny holes to release water in
a soft shower rather than a high-pressure stream. |
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Tip: Mimic
the special colors of the sunset and sunrise. Use colorful plants
accordingly. |
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Your
Lawn is the cheapest thing to plant, yet it becomes the most expensive in the
garden to maintain. In the
southern U.S. "warm-season" grasses are generally grown.
These types of lawn grasses grow actively from mid-April to mid-October. As
their name implies, they like the warm weather. Bermuda grass is an a
warm-season type of grass. There are
thousands of species of grass, yet only about 50 of those are suitable for
use in home lawns. When seeding a lawn, it is important to choose the
species, or mix of species that will grow best in that particular location
and climate tolerance. Kentucky bluegrass is best used in full sun areas.
This grass color is beautiful and it thrives in the sun, but does poorly in
shade areas, it also germinates quite slowly. Perennial Ryegrass creates
beautiful lawns, also its quick germination makes lawn establishment quickly.
Tall Fescue (Tall Fescue is often confused with Crabgrass, as fescue shares a
lot of Crabgrass traits) isn't a grass species that normally recommended for
home use primarily a bunch type grass, so it tends to grow in clumps. This
grass also does poorly in cold climates. Fine Fescue is an excellent species
for shady backyards due to its shade tolerance, although it does not do well
in poorly drained soils. Bentgrass is generally not
used for home lawns because of its maintenance requirements, mainly it is
usually used on golf course putting greens. Also, it is a crawler that
overtakes walks and driveways, so constant care is necessary. Ornamental
grass has only one purpose, to be pretty, Ornamental grass is used in
landscape design the way one uses flowers, shrubs and trees. This is not a
grass to be mowed, and is not meant to be uniform. Most grasses
in the United States are not native, most of them came from Europe and are
now hybrid grasses. An excellent
source of information pertaining to lawn grasses in your particular seasonal
zone is Landscape-America's
web site. Seeding
Tip: Once the ground
temperature warms to about 52 degrees, seeds will grow. Good seed-to-soil
contact will get the seeds germinating. |
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Tip: Make sure to keep
in mind the mature size of young trees and shrubs you plant. Otherwise it
will be easy to plant them too close together. |
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Tip: Plant
shrubs and individual ornamental grasses in groups of odd numbers. Planting
odd numbers of these plants will balance out the visual aspects of your
flower garden. |
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Visual QT:
A well cared for and attention-grabbing yard usually incorporates the use of
flowers for color. Some people use flowering bushes or shrubs with varied
foliage. Other people use containers of flowers on their steps or along a
walk way. Other people will choose hanging flower baskets to bring color to
the front of their home |
GARDENING TERMS 101
Groundcover: A plant that spreads over the surface of the soil,
usually with a maximum height of 18 inches. Growing Season: The growing
season extends from the last spr
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House plants can be classified according to their light
needs, such as Low, Medium and high, light requirements When selecting house plants,
it is best to first check the foliage. You are looking for plants that appear
to be insect and disease free. Check the undersides of the foliage and the
axils of leaves for signs of insects or disease. Select plants that look
sturdy, clean, well potted, shapely, and well-covered with leaves. Choose plants with healthy
foliage. Avoid plants which have yellow or chlorotic leaves, brown leaf
margins, wilted or water-soaked foliage, spots or blotches and spindly
growth. In addition, avoid leaves with mechanical damage, and those which
have been treated with "leaf shines" which add an unnatural polish
to the leaves. Plants which have new flowers and leaf buds along with young
growth are usually of superior quality. Light, is
likely the most essential factor for house plant growth, be extra careful
where you plant your indoor plant, taking the time to read the plants
specifics. many specifics are available on the web, which will provide you
with that necessary information. The next comes water. House plant roots are
usually in the bottom two-thirds of the pot, so do not water until the bottom
two-thirds starts to dry out slightly. You can't tell this by looking. You
have to feel the soil. For a 6-inch pot, stick your index finger about 2
inches into the soil (approximately to the second joint of your finger). If
the soil feels damp, don't water. Keep repeating the test until the soil is
barely moist at the 2-inch depth. For smaller pots, 1 inch into the soil is
the proper depth to measure. temperature: foliage house plants grow best
between 70o and 80o F. during the day and from 60o
to 68o F. at night. Most flowering house plants prefer the same
daytime range but grow best at nighttime temperatures from 55o to
60o F., humidity, ventilation, fertilization, and soil are chief
factors affecting plant growth, and any one of these factors in incorrect
proportions will prevent proper plant growth indoors. Plant Health: 101
Improper watering, sudden
changes in environment, cold drafts, lack of fertilizer, insect or disease
attack may cause problems for houseplants. Common
Causes of Unhealthy Plants
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Nutrient Tip: Leave the grass clippings to decompose on the lawn. Annually,
this will provide nutrients equivalent to one or two fertilizer applications |
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Different grass types require
a height range that it is best suited with, if you will cut the grass at
that height the grass will be look better, be healthier, and more importantly
last through the season without dying out from lack of water. The depth of
the root system is in direct correlation to the height you mow at. So, the
higher you mow the deeper the roots, the more water the grass can get and the
less you have to water.
Sharp mower blades = Clean
cut lawn Mowing at the
correct height also shades the soil, keeping temperatures lower for optimum
growth. Check the recommended mowing height for your lawn. A common mistake
with tall fescue lawns is mowing too short-- |
Quick Tip: Cut a flower when it is about half open; it will continue to
open in the arrangement. The petal color should show on the bud before cutting.
Pick roses and tulips just as they are opening
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Bulbs
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Tips about the Benefits From Coffee Grinds? |
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FERTILIZING Drop-type or rotary
fertilizer spreaders are most effective. Rotary spreaders usually give better
distribution where sharp turns are encountered because they tend to cover a
broader swath and fan the fertilizer out at the edges of the swath. Caution, when applying a high-nitrogen fertilizer in
April, as it may cause grass to grow too fast, before the roots can grow
to support the lawn. This makes a lawn less tolerant of summer heat. |
Indoor/Outdoor Fountain Tip: You get what you pay for. Typically, the
usual fountain you buy at a discount store will start out as a relatively
quiet pump, but will usually won't take long to become irritatingly
loud. You will also have problems with splash and splatter finding its
way onto furniture, or other issues involving fountains that became clogged,
covered with a buildup of residue, or required frequent cleaning. Do yourself
a favor and buy from a dealer, who has firsthand knowledge of them, and he
will point you in the direction that fits your needs and be long lasting.
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Blackberry, Blueberry, Chestnuts, Fig, Grape, Loquat, Nectarine,
Peach, Pecan, Persimmon, Plum, Pomegranate. |
HEDGES
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To some who like beautiful colors the whole summer
long, plant a low flowery hedge of yellow or white
potentilla, deep
pink spirea, and golden-leafed privet.
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One can speed up the process
of composting by turning your compost pile, or tumbling your compost bin.
When the compost is loose and crumbly and the materials that went into it
have lost their identity, then the compost is ready to go in your soil. Mature compost
is still organic matter and can be used when your planting instructions
request it. Organic matter that hasn't decayed as far as compost shouldn't
normally be used directly on plants because the nutrient balance and pH can
get excessive change as it decays (too much nitrogen in fresh manure, or
nitrogen depletion as wood chips decompose) and because it may still contain
toxic substances, such as weed seeds, fungal diseases and toxic bacteria. |
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QT Add 2 ounces of Listerine to 1 gallon of water to extend
the life of cut flowers, including roses. |
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Lady beetles are beneficial
insects, predators of the insect world. Their larva is insatiable as they grow
into adult beetles. They love to feed on a common landscape pest, the aphid.
The larva looks nothing like the adult beetle, it has an alligator like
appearance, and lacks wings. A single lady beetle will eat about 5000 aphids
during its lifetime. They kill far more pest insects than the more widely
known ‘praying’ mantid. There are over 350 species of lady beetles in North
America. Both the lady beetle larva
and adult cause no harm to humans or pets. They do not bite or sting, cause
structural problems to our homes, infest food and clothing, or carry
diseases. Lady beetles have no natural enemies which is due to a liquid
substance they emit from their bodies that smells bad, which in turn makes
them taste bad to any other insect, bird, or animal. Try picking one up and
see if you can smell the odor it secretes. The U.S. Department of
Agriculture released Asian lady beetles a few times from 1978 to 1981 in an
attempt to introduce them to the eastern United States. They were intended to be a
biological control for aphids, scale insects and the hemlock wooly adelgid. Mostly the Asian species is
the one which becomes a nuisance every fall when they look for places to
hibernate. Normally they live in trees and shrubs, but as winter approaches,
they fly above the trees in search of sheltered places to over winter
together. Homes and buildings that are surrounded by trees and woods have
more problems with large masses of beetles than those in more urban areas.
The beetles are attracted to light colored buildings and even more to bright
light and that is why they tend to congregate on the sunny side of
structures. To attract each other to an ideal site they secrete a chemical
known as "aggregating pheromone". The pheromone is like a
chemical map leading them in and building up their numbers. Once the group forms the
beetles begin to look for shelter and that is why they enter buildings. They
will go to any side of a building now, not only the sunny side. They can be
found in the cracks of foundations, under roof shingles, around window and
door frames, in wood piles, under siding or soffits, in attics or light
fixtures, fan vents and other safe places. As winter ends the beetles slowly
emerge on warm days and congregate once again to mate, then fly off to trees
and shrubs to lays eggs and resume feeding. This mating period is usually
interrupted at night when temperatures drop. After a week or two most of the
beetles have emerged, mated and moved back to the trees and shrubs. |
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Weeds detract from the beauty of lawns due to the contrast
in color and texture between the desired grass plants and the weeds. In
addition, weeds compete with the desired grass plants for available water and
nutrients, usually resulting in thinning of desirable plant cover. Weedy grasses and broadleaf
weeds are further divided into groups according to the plants' length of
life. Perennial weeds have a life of more than two
years, though new seeds may be produced every year. Biennial weeds
have a life of two years, generally storing up food reserves in the leaves
and roots the first year and producing seed in the second year. The biennial
weeds often are grouped with perennial weeds since control is similar. Annual weeds
germinate from seed, grow, flower, and produce seed in less than one year. Summer annuals
germinate in the spring and mature in the fall, whereas winter annuals
germinate in fall or late winter and mature in late spring. Effective control of weeds in turf is based on correct
identification. Many books and charts are available to help in identifying
common lawn weeds. Grassy weeds, like crabgrass, can quickly overtake bare
spots and make turf establishment difficult. While there are several pre-emergence (before the weeds appear) herbicides on the
market that prevent grab grass germination, these chemicals can also severely
damage or kill the germinating turfgrass.
Post emergent herbicides (either Granular or liquid) can
control existing broadleaf weeds such as dandelion, clover, thistle and
bindweed. Post emergent herbicides do not prevent weed seeds from germinating
and reinvesting a lawn |
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Weed Mat
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In the 17th century and earlier, when plants were widely
used as medicine, getting a name wrong could have fairly serious
consequences. For this and other reasons, a Swedish botanist named Carl Linné (Carolus Linnaeus) invented a
comprehensive scheme for naming all living creatures, at the same time
grouping them according to natural relationships. This system, which is still
in use, is called binomial |
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Cut Flower Tip: Make greenery last longer, cut fresh greenery in the early
morning or evening while it is moist and immediately submerge greenery in
water after cutting. If you are not using greens (fresh picked or bought) immediately,
smash the end of each branch with a hammer and return to water until needed:
this keeps the veins open to absorb water. |
Toxic Plants by Degree of Toxicity
Source: Purdue University
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Extremely Toxic |
Moderately Toxic |
Minimally Toxic |
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When you are in the planning stages of your landscaping, make
sure you're providing something of interest in each of the four seasons. Your
landscaping begins with a well-researched plant and tree selection plan. Your
goal is to have lawns, flowering trees (such as Japanese maple, which will
provide for shade in the summer and beautiful colors in the fall) and/or
shrubs throughout spring and summer, fall foliage in autumn and good
structure in winter. Consider using different accessories, arbors, bird
feeders, ornaments, yard benches and chairs, artificial or real fountains
(normally in the back yard). Vases as well as plants that can help add to the
landscaping, complementing each other. They create a good balance with and
contrast against the natural elements of a garden such as shrubs and trees.
This applies to both the front and rear landscaping of your home. |
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The genus lavendula
comes in many different shapes, sizes, and degrees of hardiness. Lavender
thrives in full sun and well-drained soils with a pH of 7.0 to 7.3. The
hardiest varieties have no trouble surviving in zone 4 while many of the
tender species will not withstand a frost. There are hundreds of
lavender varieties around the world with perhaps 50 regularly found in
commerce. They vary in many ways. Colors range from deep purple to blue, pink
and white. They can be as small as 12 inches high to as large as 3 feet in
diameter. The earliest one’s bloom in late May in our region while the latest
don’t show their flowers until the second week of July. Leaves can be quite
green or almost silver. The major reason for all of
this variation is that lavender hybridizes very easily. If you want a true
copy of an existing plant, you’ll need one that has been propagated by a
cutting. With lavender grown from seed, there is a very real chance that you
will get a plant that is close to, but not the same as, the parent plant.
This may not matter a great deal if you are only planting one or two
lavenders in your garden; however, if you are putting in a hedge and want all
of your plants to have the same color and be in bloom at the same time, it
may make a great deal of difference. Hardy varieties The hardiest lavenders are
the L. angustifolia family, sometimes called English lavender. These plants
have small smooth leaves; they usually grow 18 to 24 inches high and 15 to 20
inches in diameter. There are several hundred angustifolia varieties
available commercially including the old standbys Hidcote and Munstead. These plants tend to bloom in June on 6 to 8-inch
stems; some, including Madeline Marie, Rebecca Kay, and Two Amys, have excellent second blooms from late August until
frost. They survive our winters very nicely. A second group of hardy
lavenders are the L. X intermedia varieties which are also called lavindins. These hybrids tend to be larger than the angustifolas with some, Grappenhall and Dutch, for
example, averaging two feet high and three feet in diameter.The intermedias
are somewhat less winter hardy than the angustifolias. |
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Genus Lilium Many different plants carry
the common name "lily" in their descriptions, such as
"lily-of-the-valley" and "day lily." The true lily is in
the genus Lilium,
and has many separate species such as the elegant regal lily, Lilium regale. True lilies
have bulbs with a basal plate that roots emerge from, and the bulbs are
fragile and easily bruised. True lilies don't ever quite
go dormant. They must be packed in protective material like sawdust or peat
moss for handling and shipping. Plant them as soon after buying as possible.
Do not unpack them and leave them to dry out in open air. If they must be
stored, place them in the packing materials in the vegetable compartment of a
refrigerator, never allowing them to freeze. Once a lily bulb dries out, or
freezes, it will not grow properly. The asiatic
hybrids are among the earliest to bloom, and also the easiest of lilies to
grow! You can plant these lilies almost anywhere…especially in brightest
sunshine with lots of gay garden plants for company. They have the broadest
color range of any division, including whites, pinks, plums, yellows,
oranges, and reds. Their flowers can be up facing, outfacing, or pendant, and
generally are not scented. Planting lilies successfully
isn't difficult. The one key point is to settle them in well-drained spots in
the garden, in soil thoroughly amended with compost. Lily bulbs are
vulnerable to rotting in wet spots, so choose a place with perfect drainage.
(If a hole full of water drains out at the rate of about 1/2-1 inch an hour,
that's good.) If the drainage is poor and the area you have in mind for
lilies stays soggy day after day, plant the lilies in large containers,
allowing at least 2 gallons of soil for each lily. Dig at least 12 inches down,
loosening the soil. Plant lily bulbs 6 to 10 inches deep, depending on the
size of the bulb, putting loose fertile soil above the bulb as well as below
it. In the spring, when shoots appear, apply a balanced fertilizer such as a
5-10-10. Mark the planting location careful, because lily shoots emerge late
in the spring and it's easy to forget the planting spot. It's dismaying to
plunge a shovel into an apparently empty spot and come up with half a
destroyed lily bulb. Lilies will bloom from early
June through August. The earliest to open are the asiatics,
brightly colorful and intriguing, from about 1 foot to 4 feet in height.
Asiatic lilies lack fragrance but have great garden presence in a full range
of sunset colors. They grow beautifully in containers, and would develop for
June bloom if planted in containers now. In July and August, Trumpet,
Aurelian, and Oriental hybrids produce great showy flowers. These plants grow
from 2 to 8 feet, or even taller depending on the variety. They shine in many
different colors (primarily rose, pink, yellow, cream, and whites). Fragrance
makes these later lilies stand out from nearly all other garden flowers: they
accompany their beauty with sublime perfume. One of the most popular
Orientals is 'Casablanca,' a pure white with petal quality like slubbed silk shantung, and a deep penetrating scent.
Another striking group of Oriental lilies includes 'Imperial Gold Strain' and
'Imperial Silver Strain.' The Imperials have distinct freckled spots on pure
white petals and a spicy fragrance. Plant between February
and about the end of March. With care these plants will settle in and
return yearly, growing into larger clumps as they become perennial garden
residents. These glorious flowers repay their small initial investment with
wonderful returns to the gardeners. |
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Paperbark maple, Acer griseum, is one of my favorite trees.
This slow-growing tree offers a cinnamon colored, peeling bark on the trunk
and branches. It is a slow grower, but certainly worth the wait. It likes
part shade to full sun and reaches about 20-25'. It's not fussy about soil,
but don't place it in a really dry location. Well drained soils are best.
This is a great selection for a specimen tree or focal point in the garden
where the tree bark and color will be visited on a more personal level. |
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MULCH Mulching basics 101:
Mulch retains
moisture, and can reduce water use by as much as 50 percent, retards weeds,
provides (organic mulches break down to add organic matter to the soil)
nutrients, controls erosion and insulates the soil protecting plants from
extreme temperature changes and used decoratively, can showcase your garden
plants. |
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Tip:
If you want to plant flowers under a tree, make sure the flowers are going to
flourish in the shade. |
Tips for Alternatives
to Pesticides and Chemicals
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